In Bidborough is a reinvented local, a big busy gastropub enjoyed by the country set. From its pristine weatherboarding to its zinc-topped bar, it is delightful and dapper inside and out. The Tanner brothers opened their first restaurant in 1999 and this is their newest venture; find a sweep of hardwood floor, a long blue-grey bar, a log-burner by leather sofas, large antlers on a bare brick wall, a big paved garden. The range of drinks is broad (bottled beers, ciders, spirits, 30 wines by the glass) and the produce fresh, seasonal and Kentish; they champion the best. Old favourites appear on the menus (Bar, Set and Main) and are executed with a sure touch: devilled whitebait, scrumptious fish and chips, steak medallions with brandy cream, rice pudding with plum jam. Our burgers vanished in seconds.