Special Places to Stay - More than a bed for the night

Cranborne was home to Robert Cecil, Earl of Salisbury, the Tudor spymaster who moved King James onto the throne when Elizabeth died in 1603. Under his patronage the village grew into a market town with a garrison to protect a plentiful supply of royal visitors; these days the village has returned to its sleepy roots and is all the better for it. Mark and Emmanuelle arrived three years ago, he to cook, she to polish and shine. It's a small affair, a restaurant with rooms that has resisted the urge for all-out contemporary design. Instead, you find something more homespun: a lounge that doubles as reception; sofas in front of a wood-burner; travel books to sweep you away; maps galore for glorious walking. Bedrooms upstairs, recently refurbished, have a super style: warm yellows, pretty fabrics, comfy beds and crisp white linen, smart little bathrooms with underfloor heating. Best of all is the restaurant for Mark's rustic cooking... game terrine, roast shoulder of veal, Capricorn goat's cheese with plum compote. Spin west a few miles to Hambledon Hill (a prehistoric hill fort) for huge country views.