Special Places to Stay - More than a bed for the night

The royal town of Loches is steeped in renaissance history – and, on its higher rocky reaches, medieval too; summer's son et luminière is fabulous. An 18th-century cottage on a street of fine houses, this gîte – along with its accompanying next-door B&B – shares a near-perfect setting on the river; you'll sit for hours on the terrace, gazing at the water and the pretty park beyond. Inside, all is comfort and classic French charm. Off the terrace is the salon, its beams painted a pale green in an otherwise neutral setting that sets off well the owner's antiques: lovely rugs on white tiles, a gateleg table, a red striped Directoire sofa, fine old oils. There's a spotless kitchenette downstairs and a functional bathroom that's stocked with good quality towels on the first floor, plus two bedrooms: a double with Persian carpets and a fine wardrobe, and a twin with painted bedheads and rugs. Stock up twice weekly at Loches' celebrated market, marvel at its Renaissance château, catch one of summer's music festivals (classical, jazz or blues)... or simply fish from your own flight of stone steps.