Special Places to Stay - More than a bed for the night

Down by the 27-centuries-old Phœnician port you are enveloped in the history of Palermo and some breathtakingly fine buildings. Jasmine stands in a 10th-century courtyard in the old Arab town, just reviving from centuries of neglect. Irish-turned-Sicilian (almost), the delightful Mary lives round the corner, leaves fresh breakfast in your super kitchen, is involved in conservation, and can keep you entertained for hours with her insights into local mores. Her vertical, newly renovated 'doll's house' is adorable. It starts on the first floor (and you can barbecue in the courtyard). Expect a pleasing little all-Italian shower room and a bedroom with its own wicker sofa and writing table; then up to an open-plan living area, well-lit and comfortably furnished, marrying northern sobriety with southern colour. Finally, an iron spiral leads to a pretty terrace shaded by bamboo blinds, decorated with eager creepers and plants. Kalsart, a feast of music, art and many talents, makes summer evenings in La Kalsa so very pleasurable.