Special Places to Stay - More than a bed for the night

This very special 1920s house in the lee of the church has been restored by Enrique, pioneer of eco tourism. It's a well-insulated home, cool in summer, warm in winter; old radiators belt out the heat, louvred shutters let in the light, the pale interior is finely furnished, and the top-floor bedrooms are elegantly sober, with magical views. New mattresses dress 1920s beds, and shower rooms have glass-brick walls. But the heart of the place is the dining area where a huge rock juts into the room beside the long convivial table and the full-length wall tapestry lends the space weight. Here you are served organic and vegetarian soups, salads, cheeses, homemade bread and lashings of cider, while breakfast is a purifying selection of muesli, cereals and mountain honey. Enrique, a well-travelled and charming host, has an intimate knowledge of this undiscovered region; it is a joy to converse with him. Walking, mushroom-picking, advanced yoga... make a trip to this peaceful, remote, deeply serene place. The garden shares its walls with the ramparts, the fortified village is a gem.