For 250 years an inn has stood on this land. The current version is newly built and its delights are hard to miss: a cool bar with Chesterfield sofas in front of a wood burner; a panelled restaurant with intimate booths for two; bedrooms laden with comfort that stand peacefully away from the bar. You’ll find excellent service, an informal feel, delicious food, an easy style that runs throughout. Gardens at the back look onto fields, the terrace comes with a barbeque that’s busy in summer. The food is good, the kitchen headed by Michael Chapman, who had a Michelin star at his last restaurant and is keen to have one again. You might find blow-torched Brixham mackerel, Berkshire hogget with braised shoulder cannelloni, Yorkshire rhubarb mousse with stem ginger ice cream. Bedrooms have crisp fabrics, silky white cotton, half panelled walls, engineered wood floors. You get coffee machines, super-fast WiFi, then sparkling bathrooms with robes and power showers, perhaps a claw-foot bath; one room opens onto a terrace. Henley and Windsor are close. The road passes quietly at night.