Coast down the steep winding lane to a 1760s mill house in a woodland setting. Trebarwith’s spectacular beach – all surf and sand – is a ten-minute walk away. It’s quite a spot. Back at the inn, the bar combines the best of Cornish old and Cornish new: big flagged floor, wooden tables, chapel chairs, two leather sofas by a wood-burning stove. The swanky dining room overlooking the burbling mill stream is light, elegant and very modern. Settle down to some rather good food: firecracker prawns; fillet of sea trout with crushed potatoes, kale, roasted banana shallot, mussel & tarragon cream; coconut panna cotta, torched pineapple, rum sponge. Bar meals are more traditional, they do great barbecues in summer and (be warned) a band often plays at the weekend. In keeping with the seaside setting, bedrooms are simple and uncluttered, with good shower rooms in the smaller standard rooms. If you stay in the little cottage be ready for a steep staircase. Coastal trails lead to Tintagel, official home of the Arthurian legends, there’s biking, surfing, crabbing… you couldn’t possibly be bored.