You can’t miss it: the big square Custom House opposite the car park, right on Padstow’s quay. It is sturdy, delightful and no doubt has weathered many a storm. Inside: a large bar on two levels with planked floors and timbered ceiling, background music and a big screen for sport. There’s a coffee shop on the ground floor and a hairdressers above. The place buzzes with trippers, locals, children, dogs, and if you fancy pushing the boat out book into the restaurant, modern and stylish with muted colours and views down over the harbour. The menu is fish-led – of course – and there’s a daily changing specials board: they follow the seasons here. Try crispy fried camembert with chilli jam; cassoulet with roasted tomatoes; fish pie with creamy saffron sauce. Then catch the ferry to Rock, and tiny St Enodoc church where John Betjeman is buried. If you wish to linger, the bedrooms are very good, with their cream pattern carpets, heated towel rails, iPod docks and relaxed seaside décor. Splash out on one with a harbour or estuary view – corner rooms have both! The most peaceful are at the top.