It rises from the roadside in magnificent granite blocks, hung with flowers in season. A fresh wind has blown through this pub set back from the harbour of St Ives: now the interior is open-plan and upbeat. Perch on a red bar stool at the impressive white marble-topped bar and choose from St Austell’s fine ales – HSD will see you reeling – or some good old Cornish Rattler cider. Head to a well-scrubbed candlelit table, or a tartan bench seat by the fireplace. Matt Perry’s menus are constantly evolving and have big flavours based on rustic French and Italian recipes alongside sturdy old-fashioned English offerings: try lamb faggot with crispy belly pork, carrot purée, cabbage and bacon and onion gravy; finish with orange posset, marmalade ice cream and shortbread. When you feel sleep beckons, you have eight fresh, light, modern bedrooms to choose from, each with vintage touches and a local coastal theme. Bathrooms are spacious and modern with compact showers. Awake to the sound of the gulls and a terrific (earlyish) breakfast – then set off to stride that glorious coast.