Pull the front door bell, of what was, until the late sixties, the village school; now the little playground is prettily paved, and roses romp in summer. Inside is a large sitting room, comfortably artistic and catching the sun, cosy with books, maps, guides, games and an upright piano. The kitchen too is big, bright and well-equipped, a happy place in which to cook and eat. On the ground floor are a double and a tiny twin, and a spanking new shower room with a heated limestone floor. A tall, ladder-like stair leads to interlinking bedrooms in the attic above – rich colours, a mix of old and new pine, a single room with an extra pull-out bed, and surely the best views in Yorkshire! Behind, facing east and surrounded by woodland and fell, is an enclosed courtyard garden with an iron table and chairs – a perfect spot for breakfast in the morning sun. Owner Pip, a lettering artist, discreet and delightful, has her home and studio right next door. Ask her where to walk, cycle, picnic, bathe, go bronze rubbing, or scything in August… feed animals, taste cheeses, visit galleries. Connected but remote: a marvellous retreat.