A cosy apartment overlooking the sea that sits close to Exmoor’s coast path where it sweeps dramatically into the Valley of the Rocks. There’s a collection of guest houses on the North Walk promenade which crosses – near the top – the funicular linking Lynmouth and Lynton. The Downings have transformed theirs into a calm retreat, with self-catering space on the ground floor. Inside is sweet, fresh and simple. The walls are white, the shower room bedecked in gleaming red tiles. The bedroom sits behind a wooden half wall, brightened cheerfully in blushing pink, a happy contrast with the dark brass bed. Living and kitchen spaces come together, one corner stocked with all the white goods you could need, the other has a sofabed, stacks of books and a library of walking maps. Wind-blasted wanderers can return to privacy, take a drink on the sheltered terrace or get cosy with a DVD. In the morning you may choose to seek out Sarah and Ian’s fabulous local and organic breakfasts in the B&B above (your hosts are relaxed and charming). There are miles of coast, wood and moorland to explore; pubs and tea rooms along the way.