The front door at Glazebrook may well be a rip in the space-time continuum. Outside, English decorum reigns; inside, a wonderland for your senses waits. You don’t really find a hotel, more a contemporary art installation that you get to live in for a day or two. It’s a reinvention of a 19th-century collector’s house and it overflows with pink flamingos, enormous chandeliers, ancient maps, a bust of the queen with a halo instead of a crown. There’s a dinosaur in the library, a tasting room for whisky and wine, a red-marbled bar with sofas and armchairs, then doors onto a terrace for afternoon tea. Rooms come fully loaded: vast beds, the loveliest linen, cool design, quirky art. You get iPads, smart TVs and minibars ‘on the house’. Black marble bathrooms are flawless, with walk-in showers, fluffy robes, perhaps a free-standing bath. Ambrosial food waits downstairs, maybe goats cheese mousse, rake of lamb, hake with shellfish butter, chocolate delice with popcorn. The A38 passes nearby, a distant hum when you’re outside, so don’t let that put you off visiting this exceptional hotel. Dartmoor waits.