It’s an adventure getting here. Row across the river or take the boatman’s ferry for a few coins – charming Diana, who spends happy summers boating here, will show you. Find a whitewashed terraced cottage in a dramatic and privileged spot, near a beach of rock pools and foamy surf.You’re a five-minute walk to where the Yealm spills out to sea, sliced into a wooded hill opposite a pair of villages with shops and good pubs.The cottage once guarded deep water moorings from smugglers, and now gets filled with people of all ages trailing wetsuits, shrimping nets and damp walking boots.Inside, all is fresh, simple and stylish, with quirky coastal artwork, a window seat and wooden floors. There’s a choice of wood-burners to dry off by and a stable door leads to a front terrace with the most glorious view of the water; it’s the perfect spot for a sundowner or long lazy lunch. It’s not about luxury here, but being close to the water – and having adventures.