In a bustling Cotswolds village, the old pub stands proudly by the village green. Enter the bar, uncluttered in a stylish way, just low beams, scrubbed tables, a parquet floor, fantastic fires… the sort of place where young mums meet for coffee (beans roasted in Cirencester) and business folk for breakfast. The restaurant seats 40, with shining glasses on small square tables and good pictures on white walls. As for the food, it’s simple, modern, classy: slow roast celeriac with feta and hazelnut granola; sea bream with fennel, samphire and crab salad; dry aged steak with chips, roast tomato and garlic butter. There are burgers too, and a dark chocolate delice, and in summer you spill onto the green. Up above: simple, comfortable bedrooms, a work in progress, great value, two for families. Paul’s focus is on “a great bed, a great shower, and excellent WiFi” – who could argue with that?