This 16th-century farmhouse is bursting with books, art and treasures that speak of worlds far beyond the tiny hamlet. Festooned with roses in summer, wood-burner warmed in winter. Inviting bedrooms, up steep oak stairs, have handmade beds from India – the high, pretty four-poster has a footstool for climbing in. Wake for an Aga breakfast round the kitchen table: a full English with eggs from the hens. Merbach Trig Point has views over seven counties and is walkable from the door; Hay-on-Wye is close; there’s a small lake in the eight acres of pasture – Emma is happy for you to paddle about in the rowing boat when the sun is out.