Getting here is half the fun, in the wilds of Herefordshire (but it could be tricky in the dark). In a pretty spot down by the river, beneath the Black Hill of Bruce Chatwin fame, the 16th-century Bridge started life as a house, achingly lovely on its river side with willows weeping down the footbridge. Walkers descend, so do dogs, and families and shooting parties, and Glyn is the nicest host. Inside, hops hang from dark beams and the wood-burner belts out the heat, there are solid wooden pews, scrubbed pine tables and small bar stools on the other side. It’s properly pubby yet there’s an organic and fine wine menu. Eat in one of two dining areas with contemporary colours on the walls; our pints of Butty Bach slipped down nicely and our food – hake with seafood stew, and barbecue brisket – was very, very good. Stay the night? We would! Four super country bedrooms lie in the farmhouse a minute away, with antiques, thick carpets, deep window seats, and a dark panelled sitting room below. In summer you can camp in the field above the pub or – for romantics – in a super yurt with decking and a vintage interior up a wooded path.