Is it an art gallery, a smallholding or a cool hotel? Whatever it is, Hillside is a great little place to wash up for a couple of nights. It stands at the foot of forested hills with views over Ventnor and out to sea. Outside, five acres of lawn, field and woodland are home to Hebridean sheep, free-range chickens, red squirrels and white doves; there are beehives, too, and a stunning kitchen garden that provides much for the table. Inside, you find a wonderland in white. There’s a cute bar with a wood-burner, a sitting room with Danish leather sofas, an airy restaurant for the freshest food, then a conservatory that opens onto a terrace for afternoon tea in the sun. Inside, 286 pieces of art hang on the walls, but it’s the food that counts most; the hotel has its own fishing boat and rears cattle in nearby fields. And it’s delicious stuff, as fresh as can be, perhaps Ventnor Bay scallops with chorizo and Hillside honey, local rack of lamb with a red wine jus and garden greens, pear tarte tatin with edible wild flowers. Uncluttered bedrooms are a treat, those at the front have the view.