This is one of England’s oldest coaching inns, with 800 years of continuous service under its belt. It stands in a village two miles inland from the sea at Dunwich, with Westleton Heath running east towards Minsmere RSPB Nature Reserve. Inside, stripped floors, smouldering fires, exposed brickwork and ancient beams sweep you back in time. Weave about and find nooks and crannies in which to hide, flames flickering in open fires, a huge map on the wall for walkers. You breakfast in the conservatory amid big photos of local landscapes; in summer doors open onto a terraced garden for barbecues in the sun. Fish comes straight off the boats at Lowestoft, local butchers provide local meat, so try ham hock and pigeon terrine, filet of sea bass with a cockle chowder, dark chocolate fondant with pistachio ice cream. Bedrooms are scattered about (Will and Kate loved theirs), some in the main house, others in converted stables. Expect off-whites, comfy beds, crisp linen, flat-screen TVs. Bathrooms come courtesy of Fired Earth, some with claw-foot baths. Aldeburgh and Southwold are close. Dogs are welcome.