By the small fishing river at the mouth of the Glen, settled into its own wooded grounds, is a big Scottish farmhouse (once a drovers’ inn) where on a still summer night you can hear the lapping of the sea. A fine, traditional, cultured place, it’s been in Ian’s family since time began and brims with colour and character. Bedrooms share bathrooms, books overflow from shelves in corridors, a Nespresso machine sits in the dining room and you help yourself to milk from the fridge – this is a fuss-free, front door thrown open sort of place.
Ian cooks a very good breakfast: freshly squeezed orange juice, bacon, sausages and eggs from the island, smoked salmon from a smokery down the road and homemade marmalade with toasted sourdough. Head off to walk, sail, fish, swim or jump on a ferry to island hop, pootle round Tobermory to admire the boats, cross to the other side of the island for three fabulous waterfalls and another long beach.
It’s a 10-minute walk to a good pub, or you could try Cafe Fish in Tobermory – they have their own fishing boat and bring back the freshest catch – booking is essential. Return to sprawl in an armchair by the log fire with a dram from the island distillery.