A 1780 dower house for the Dukes of Argyll – their cottage by the sea. Built of local stone, it sits high on the hill with long views over Oban harbour to the Isle of Mull. It’s a lovely small hotel with a stylish old-school feel: a roaring fire in the drawing room, beautiful tiles in the entrance hall, an elegant bay window in the bar, then a half-panelled dining room for excellent food. Attractive bedrooms have warm colours, fresh flowers, crisp linen, bowls of fruit and the odd antique. A couple are smaller, those with sea views have binoculars with which to scan the seven seas. Bathrooms are spotless, one has claw-foot bath. Dinner is a five-course feast, perhaps west coast sea bass, pea and ham soup, elderflower sorbet, saddle of lamb, sticky apple cake with vanilla ice cream; there’s excellent home baking and Loch Fyne kippers for breakfast. Ferries leave for the islands from the bottom of the hill; watch them sail while digging into afternoon tea on the terrace. There’s a computer for guests to use and you can climb up to McCaig’s Tower to watch the sun set over the Hebrides.