The setting is magnificent – 17 acres of gardens rolling down to Loch Scridian. Otters and dolphins pass through, buzzards and eagles glide above, red deer visit the garden. As for this 1850 shooting lodge, you’ll be hard pressed to find a more comfortable island base, so it’s no surprise to discover it was recently voted ‘Best Country House Hotel in Scotland’ for the second year in a row. There are fires in the drawing rooms, fresh flowers everywhere, games to be played, books to be read. Airy bedrooms hit the spot: crisp linen, beautiful fabrics, the odd chaise longue; some have watery views, all have silence guaranteed. You eat in a smart dining room with much of the delicious food from the island or waters around it, perhaps mussel and oyster broth, saddle of lamb with carrot purée, chocolate torte with vanilla ice cream. You’re bang in the middle of Mull with lots to do: Tobermory, the prettiest town in the Hebrides; Calgary and its magical beach; day trips to Iona and its famous monastery; cruises to Staffa and Fingal’s Cave. Come back for afternoon tea – it’s as good as the Ritz.
Perfection. The staff, the rooms, the food, the setting. I showed up late my first night, off the ferry from Oban, and they kept the restaurant open just for me. The whole experience was marvelous. I'll be back.