Leaving Dingwall, head north-west and cross the Torridon hills, to arrive at the last lap – the rough track to Badan Mhugaidh. With a front-row Loch Torridon view, this brand new pair of cottages, at right angles to each other, are cleverly separated by a boot room dividing the two (handy for sleeping dogs). Jan and Nigel built the cottages in the grounds of the stalker’s house on the old Ben Damph estate, and are passionate about their new enterprise. All feels solid and everything works; the moment you step in you unwind. What you have here is modern, double-height, open-plan living, with one bedroom up and one bedroom down, linked by a steepish stair. The feel, however, is timeless. We warmed to the painted panelling and heated oak floors, the welcome plate of something special (eg. Shieldaig smoked salmon) and the wood-burner lit on arrival (limitless logs). Shieldaig, a pretty coastal village where you can feast on loch-fresh seafood, is 2.5 miles. Go beachcombing on the shores of the loch; watch out for sea eagles and otters; sail, cycle or dive: Loch Torridon is deep and gin-clear.