This 200-year-old former ferryman’s house is small, homely and well lived-in. Mountain views, the river Spey close by and a garden with a tray of tea and homemade treats… Plants tumble from whisky barrels and pots and there are woodpeckers and otters to spy. The sitting room is cosy with the wood-burner and brimming with books. Elizabeth, a keen traveller who has lived in the Sudan, cooks delicious, imaginative meals: eggs from her hens, homemade bread and preserves, heather honey and sometimes herbs and veg from the garden. There’s no TV – no need here: it’s an unmatched spot for explorers and nature lovers. Good value too.