Rannoch Moor is one of those magical places where the hand of man has hardly touched the landscape. You’re encircled by hills, with a couple of lochs thrown in for good measure. As for the road, it peters out at the station 20 miles west, where the London train stops and passengers disembark, bicycle in hand. Some, very sensibly, spin down to this chic hotel and check in for a night or two of luxury. It was built in 1860 and now a recent renovation has added 21st-century comfort and style. You’ll find a roaring fire in the hall, a dram or two in the wee bar, colourful art in the big sitting room, then delicious food in the restaurant, perhaps Scottish scallops, loin of roe deer, apple parfait with rosemary and sage. In summer you decant into the courtyard for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Chic suites offer more than most: the best beds, sofas and smart TVs, well-stocked kitchenettes, then dining tables for room service. Swish bathrooms have walk-in showers, some have baths, too. Kind staff are the best, nothing is too much trouble. You can kayak, fish, hire bikes or bag a munro.