By day you explore the mighty wonders of Snowdonia, by night you return to this lovely small hotel and recover in style. It’s one of those places that delivers just what you want; it’s smart without being posh, the welcome is second to none, tasty food hits the spot, the bedrooms are excellent. You’re in the middle of a small country town with a terrace at the front, so sit outside in summer and watch the world pass by. Inside, soft colours and warm lighting create a relaxed feel. There’s a cute bar with armchairs and games, an airy breakfast room for the full Welsh works, then a smart restaurant cut into the rock, which was once the county jail; the food is somewhat better these days, perhaps game terrine with mustard piccalilli, rump of Welsh lamb with rosemary dumplings, Penderyn Welsh whisky and honey ice cream. Bedrooms upstairs fit the bill nicely. Some are bigger than others, but all have the same style: clean lines, cool colours, big beds, beautiful linen. You get the odd stone wall, an armchair if there’s room, then super bathrooms. There’s secure storage for bikes, too.