These two stone-built fisherman’s cottages have been gazing south across the harbour for 300 years. Boats bob and the chink of rigging mingles with the water lapping at the sea wall; Under Milk Wood and Moby Dick were filmed here. Inside each are cool terracotta tiles warmed by rugs, cheery walls and wood-burning stoves – just the thing after a day striding the coastal path, which passes behind the cottages. The more modern kitchen for each house is in a recent extension at the back, the dining room is at the front and gets the harbour views. Bedrooms too overlook the water, the gentle susurration of the sea drifting in through open windows. Doubles have a bright, just-washed feel in stripped wood, blue, sea-green and white. There’s a single (fit for a child) in one cottage with fun yellow walls and gingham linen. Each has an upstairs bathroom and, downstairs, a wet room to wash away the last stubborn grains of sand. Dangle your toes in the estuary as the tide comes in, venture further to discover this beautiful area.