Curl up with a cat and watch the ferries – or sometimes a porpoise – coasting to Ireland; French windows open onto the terrace and a glorious vista. Mary and Tony are warm and interesting hosts; their turreted 1898 house has an easy-going atmosphere, quarry tiled floors, decorative fireplaces and an impressive staircase. Spotless bedrooms are light and airy, with large showers; the Tower Room has the views. Wake for a very good full English (or Welsh) breakfast in the tiled dining/sitting room – tuck in while admiring the panoramic view over a bay full of boats. Fishguard is a short stroll, and the stunning coastal path is nearby.