Some people lounge beside the pool on their honeymoon; Arjan and Marije, your delightful, hands-on hosts, went hotel hunting on theirs. And they found one: a handsome 19th-century turreted townhouse on the edge of a miraculously preserved 13th-century village, voted one of the most beautiful in France. Now they are well established and have seamlessly extended into an adjoining building. Herbs are from the garden, vegetables and fruit are local, fish hails from Bordeaux and Arcachon; everything is made here except bread and ice cream, supplied by artisans. After you have explored the fortified village – four sides set round the huge central square, the surrounding houses corbelled out with arches – further medieval bastides beckon: there are a dozen or so. Arjan has prepared bicycle itineraries and can point out the best place to paddle a canoe. Or you may just want to lounge by the deep-blue pool, honeymoon-style! Lushly comfortable rooms await.