Smiling, helpful staff will welcome you to the 18th-century farmhouse and its two outbuildings, planted solidly in the ground. Glowing in the sun, these limestone walls enclose a vast courtyard that leads down to an infinity pool – and a wow of a view sweeping the eye over dark forests, green hills, and a village perched on a cliff above the river. Plumb in the middle of the courtyard, a lovely open-sided structure calls you for drinks, a quiet read, or even work; it’s the old Halle aux Saumons (salmon market) – we can now only imagine the river below running silver with fish. Fine dining is the attraction here (foie gras, ravioli, veal…) as well as the long, cool, beamed restaurant itself with its bar in one corner and medley of armchairs draped in fashionably greige linen beckoning from the comfortable little sitting area. Crisp white cloths set off sparkling table settings; French windows open to the terrace. Bedrooms, some in the outbuildings, some above the restaurant, are huge; the two-room family suite sleeps six. A choice of eight breakfast teas might give a clue to what is in store. A classy place.