Could anything be more Basque? Whitewashed walls and bulls-blood red shutters, lush rolling sheep pastures, the Atlantic to the west and the emblematic La Rhune to the east; take the little train up and spot wild Pottok poneys on the way. Sophie converted the 300-year-old village farmhouse to village hotel in 2014. A white bright breakfast room now leads out to a sun terrace and a small flowery garden. Her touch is light and elegant, she welcomes all with vivacious energy, even for a chat in her kitchen, and keeps toys in the sitting room as well as a piano. Her taste is clean-cut contemporary and she loves space so not even the jacuzzi is cramped . Wake up in a lovely bedroom where muted meets bright, tear yourself off your superb mattress, enjoy the big white-and-chrome shower, then head for the luscious breakfast buffet. It’s all locally sourced: bread and pastries from the village baker’s, jam from nearby Lahonce, yogurt from St Jean Pied de Port, the gateway to Compostela. The Basque country has stupendous walks and endless treasures: stay a while and be pampered. Dinner is two minutes’ walk.