Park in the sleepy village, pass under the arch, enter the cobbled alley… and step back a thousand years. This former ‘bread oven’ is built right into the ramparts. Its three floors are characterful and charming, and every bedroom has a view to the hills of the Corbières.
The moment you enter you unwind. Find restful bedrooms; an upcycled vintage sofa; a pretty veranda; comfortable corners to sit and plan your days out. There are French windows out to the terrace, and a heated saltwater pool and jacuzzi a 30-second stroll down the hill.
For artisan shops and ancient houses of great beauty, Lagrasse is a 10-minute drive. The rivers are where the locals swim, so rent the electric bikes and head for the gorges of the Orbieu. Beaches, medieval Carcassonne and the Regional Natural Park of the Narbonne are all within 50 minutes.