The château façade flanks the road and the many-terraced garden rambles behind, with views across river and red-roofed town. Up a stone spiral are big beautiful bedrooms with a château feel. Warm, deep colours, walnut parquet and quirky touches set off family furniture to perfection; one room has a bathroom in the tower, another houses an ancient grand piano. Madame, one of an old French silk family who have been here for several generations, is as elegant and charming as her home. She will tell you all the best places to go, after sociable breakfast around the big dining room table. Enchanting!