The tiny streets of St Médiers wind up the hill, and at the top is Mas d’Oléandre, a tree-shrouded oasis with glorious views. Dutch Esther and Leo fell in love with the Languedoc years ago – the vineyards and olive groves, the gorges and mountains – and renovated this fine old farmhouse. Two little dogs will greet you before they do, and usher you into a leafy inner courtyard with a long table for ‘table d’hotes’ (once or twice a week and fabulous). Three immaculate apartments also await. Light floods in to beamy ‘Paulownia’ from arched French windows, and its terrace is shaded by beautiful hackberry trees. Two-storey Grenadier (once the stables) has a sophisticated rusticity, and a view of Mont Ventoux from the kitchen. Mimosa, the largest, comes with its bedroom downstairs, its living space up, two entrances and a generous kitchen. There are dark velour sofas, Dutch flower canvases filling high spaces, and shower rooms with polished concrete floors. Across the lane: lovely stepped gardens and a dreamy pool. Visit medieval Uzès, the Roman Pont du Gard, and Julien in tiny Montaren where the food is quite outstanding.