A short stroll from the glorious cathedral is the home of the former bishop. Valérie and her husband, after a life of international travel, fell for its beauty and brought it back to life. Now this young family live in the right wing and the suites are in the left, up a wide stone stair: one in the original chapel, with a modern four-poster and dramatic stripes, one overlooking the garden (idyllic, walled and full of roses), and one on the second floor, elegant in dove greys and soft yellows. Find iPod docks, Nespresso machines, flawless kitchenettes, lovely linen. Breakfasts are beautiful, the parking is a boon.