Come to enjoy this gentle, charming family and the serene vibes of their old Chartrain house. Up two steep twisting spirals to the attic, through the family’s little prayer room (a shell for each pilgrim who’s stayed here), the sweet, peaceful bedroom feels like a chapel itself with its honey floorboards and small windows (no wardrobe). Lots of books: reminders of pilgrimage, just beneath the great cathedral. Madame artistic, friendly, offers artists a small studio to borrow; Monsieur speaks nine languages and is quietly amusing; both are interested in your travels. An unusual and special place, in a timeless town.