This little hotel, a stroll from the glorious château of Chenonceau, was a coaching inn in the 18th century. Now in the hands of the fourth generation, it has expanded higgledy-piggledy into adjoining buildings: the old village school and a house with a 1950s tower, known tongue-in-cheek as ‘The Manor’. The pool is in a brilliantly secluded garden over the road. Kept in top condition, bedrooms are light, airy and quietly pretty with plenty of space and storage, classic Jouy fabrics, antiques, books and prints. In the original inn, the heart of the hotel, you find three utterly restful sitting rooms and the elegant dining room with a simpler, more relaxed one next to it. In summer, tables with starched white cloths, candles and flowers are set on the terrace under the trees. A good spot for château-seeing; Amboise, Chaumont, Chambord and more are within easy reach, you can make your visits and be back in time for a swim and glass of fine local wine before dinner. A large potager behind the hotel, overseen by Isabelle, supplies vegetables for Antoine’s kitchen. Huge character, charming owners, delightful cuisine.