This lovely couple are kindness itself, she softly spoken and twinkling, he jovial, talkative, utterly French. Having retired from farming, they moved into the heart of Bayeux. You can glimpse the cathedral spires from their house, once part of the old bishop’s palace. Beyond the gates and the wisteria, the door opens to a lofty beamed living room rejoicing in good antiques and a monumental fireplace; through another is the kitchen. Up the ancient stone stairs are pretty bedrooms – immaculate bedding, pastel-tiled showers – that look quietly over a pocket-handkerchief garden. Delicious breakfasts, history all around, and no need for a car.