Another pretty little cottage with rambling pink roses by the front door. It basks on the sunny side of Mont Castre, an island of stone in a sea of green. It is marvellously peaceful here in the national park, where marshland, woods and coastal dunes burst with all sorts of birds and wild flowers flourish. Back at the ranch French Chris and English Suzanne have brought a colourful organic garden to life; you have your own piece of it, with barbecue, for outdoor dining. The tiny gîte, attached to the owners’ home, is encased within 300-year-old walls: simple, cosy, good value, with a sunny kitchen/living room and a dear little mezzanine bedroom reached via a steepish stair. The second, newer, gîte has bedrooms on two floors. There are books and bicycles to borrow and old railway lines to cycle along; in summer, grab the boogie boards and head for the beach. There’s a local market for each day of the week, and the fishermen’s cooperatives for oysters, mussels, lobster, crab. Lessay with its abbey is well worth a visit, and its September festival has been going for 900 years – the oldest country fair in Europe.