Along the rustic track to a long, low nobleman’s house walled behind vines, and sweet Sophie to welcome you with a glass of their wine. All is beautiful inside and flooded with light: lofty ceiling beams painted white, 17th-century terracotta looking like new. Elegant beds are topped with blankets and sheets; two rooms have kitchenettes, one opens to the garden. A stone fireplace stacked with logs dominates the irresistible salon, and home-grown grape juices join homemade jams at the table. Explore the pretty Coran valley and the river on foot or by bike, and visit historic Saintes with its amphitheatre and cathedrals.