The big old well-lived-in house is all chandeliers, ceiling roses and heavy dark furniture. The Toile de Jouy triple has a rustic elegance, La Rose is… pink. Bathrooms are more functional than luxurious but with so much natural beauty to hand who wants to stay in anyway? Madame’s regional cooking is a treat, served in a conservatory big enough for many. Genuinely welcoming, your farmer hosts stay and chat (in French, mostly!) when they can. They’ll also show you the fascinating old cognac still. Big, off the beaten track and great for families (they run a campsite next door).