Walking distance from lovely St Rémy, the charming mas settles gently into its leafy cocoon, a massive garden bursting with oleanders, lavender, lemons and fine pieces by local designers and Balinese artists. After a swim – in one of two pools – you have boules, badminton and bikes to hire. This is Van Gogh country and the hotel lies within the conservation area of Roman Glanum. In the pretty dining room, oil paintings by a friend add a splash to white walls and meals are a special feast of market produce accompanied by excellent local wines. Air-conditioned bedrooms in the old mas are dreamy, washed in smoky-blue or ochre shades; dark wrought-iron beds are dressed in oatmeal linens and white quilts; ground-floor rooms open to small gardens or wooden decks. In contrast, the newest rooms are done with contemporary furniture, Parisian and Balinese art, pebble showers. All is spotless and every room is air-conditioned. The young owners have thought of everything: pick-up from the airport or train, car hire, tickets for local events – and there’s parking, a bonus so close to town.