Delightfully wiggly lanes through the Forêt d’Uchaux lead you to the old ‘mas’ with a gorgeous garden with pool. You enter into the conservatory and dining area to be greeted by charming Gail and Christian – when he’s at home he’ll take you truffle hunting, or you can sign up to a cookery course. It’s all very plush, with pastel colours, exposed stone walls, tinkling music and candlelight. Sleep peacefully on thick mattresses with clouds of goose down; breakfast on local yogurts, homemade cakes; proper lunches (or picnics) can be rustled up effortlessly, and dinner is sublime. A right royal pampering to be had here.