Look an eagle in the eye, up here on the edge of the Lubéron, safe in the stony arms of the great fortress. Its history starts with the 8th-century Saracen invasion. Peace came at last in 1741 and, blissfully, still reigns, interrupted only by bees buzzing in the lime tree; the glorious views still stretch over the tranquil valley, and in 2015 the building was awarded the prestigious VMF Historical Heritage label. Kind and interesting, Jean can tell you about the golden ratio used to build the castle; delightful Chantal speaks good English, too. The highly original rock-face pool will enchant you. Bedrooms are huge and comfortable with carefully-chosen antiques, lovely bedding and unostentatious designer fabrics. One has a deep-coral bed under vaulted ceilings and genuine 13th-century wardrobe doors. Each handsome, roomy bathroom, be it high-modern or new-old, is done with the best fittings. After a day of wonderful hiking and cycling nearby, visits to pretty Provençal towns and famous vineyards (Gigondas, Châteauneuf…) return to dinner of, for example, monkfish with a saffron sauce on a bed of green asparagus served on the vine-dappled terrace or in the garden.