You’re on an island, circled by a pretty river, and tucked down a network of wiggly streets. You can drive down to drop off your luggage, then head for a nearby car park. Walk through an ancient stone arch and straight into the sunny courtyard with its creeper-clad walls, convivial tables and canopy for shade. Inside, the bar has funky, colourful chairs and the talking point – a tributary of the Sorgue running right under the whole building; walk around an arch to the banks of the river. The hub of this bustling place though is its fabulous ‘Maître Restaurateur’ (always look for the symbol) restaurant and charming, friendly owners Severine and Jean-Marie: all is cooked completely from scratch and beautifully – no wonder locals flock here. Up stone stairs to bedrooms on the first and second floors: very understated and lovely, with good antique furniture rubbing shoulders with brocante finds, a chaise longue here, an old trunk there. All feels roomy and airy, some have courtyard views; bathrooms are fresh with Italian marble. Wander around the antique shops in town, or head to Avignon or Orange in the car.