The Marquis de Sade’s father and uncle were born here, an unexpected connection, given the luminosity inside. Though the infamous Marquis preferred Paris, he often stayed at Mazan, organising France’s first theatre festival here in 1772. The château sits in an appealing little town at the foot of Mont Ventoux. Floors are tiled in white-and-terracotta squares that would drown a smaller space, ceilings are lofty, windows are huge with the lightest curtains. This is a family hotel and Frédéric, who speaks good English, runs a smooth team while Mother does the fabulous décor, each room an ethereal delight: pale pink walls, a velvet sofa, a touch of apricot taffeta, a flash of red. Ground-floor bedrooms have French windows to a private sitting area; a couple of the rooms in the annexe across the road have their own terraces. There are frondy palms and secluded spots in the garden – doze in the shade of the mulberry trees – and a beautiful terrace for dinner; the chef has worked in starred restaurants and is keen to win his own. Stay on a Friday and catch Carpentras market. Altogether wonderful.