Sip a citron pressé on the leafy patio, or a ‘natural’ wine (the drinks are special). In the middle of old Paris, the hotel’s courtyard garden is a rare oasis.
This airy, light, 18th-century building, its small lift carefully restored, has been given a modern makeover. Floors shine and flamboyant colours flow, from reception and restaurant to salon and bar. Get chatty on a velvet sofa, and book dinner: the food is original and delicious. Upstairs are bedrooms in chic florals or subdued pastels, the quietest overlooking the garden.
You can walk to the Louvre in 20 minutes, Printemps in 15, and discover a charming bistro on every little corner. Midway between Montmartre and Opera Garnier, this historic quarter, known as Pigalle, is close to the Eurostar yet off the well-trod track.