The Île Saint Louis is the most exclusive 17th-century village in Paris and this renovated ‘tennis court’ – three storeys soar to the roof timbers – is one of its most exceptional sights. Add genuine care from family owners, fresh flowers, time for everyone and super staff. Regulars will be stunned – and delighted – by the recent revamp, which sees sleek designer furniture set under ancient beams, bright colours flung across stone walls, new large built-in cupboards and funky lighting to show off contemporary art. Some rooms feature beautiful beams, one gives onto a little garden; number 109’s bed perches on a high platform. We love it – for its sense of history, eccentricities, aesthetic ironies, peaceful humour and feel of home; and for its unconventional attitudes and relaxed yet thoroughly efficient staff. The serene, spacious lounge has low armchairs in chocolate and red, modern art and Lemon Blues the black retriever; breakfast is beneath magnificent timbers by faux Greek columns; work out or take a sauna in a new spa in the vaulted cellars.