The neat little Gavarni has heaved itself up the hotel ladder on ropes of rich draperies, smart bathrooms and (mostly) refurbished bedrooms. it’s also growing more eco-friendly by the year. Bedrooms are slowly being done up – so ask for one that’s had a makeover – they are light and airy, painted in pastel colours, have original artwork on the walls and look very modern. Suites are big and traditional with jacuzzis and massage shower panels, fine canopies and beautiful furniture – supremely French with Eiffel Tower views – yet never overdone. The first-floor rooms are less luxurious but the quality is the same: thick lovely carpets, finely stitched quilts, heavy curtains and good little pieces of furniture. The triumph is those little bathrooms which have gained so much space with their utterly ingenious made-to-measure red ‘granite’ basin, shower and loo. Xavier, the dynamic young manager, is dedicated to making the Gavarni as ‘green’ as possible and a terrific organic, fairtrade breakfast is served in the conservatory; energy is renewable and all cleaning is done with eco-friendly ingredients.