A ten-minute walk from Eurostar’s Gard du Nord – south towards the Marais – is a youthful hotel in a quirky ‘quartier’ where everything is on the up. Behind the handsome façade and the eye-catching awning is a hotel of friendliness and French-designer charm. Enter the lobby that divides the breakfast room in two to find clean-limbed sofas, minimalist chairs and striking modern wallpapers. Here, continental buffet breakfast is served – coffee, baguettes, and just-baked croissants. Bedrooms make it all the way to the top and are reached by many stairs, or a lift that squeezes in two. (Note, the lift stops at the sixth floor, so if your room’s under the roof on the seventh, you hike the final stair.) Bedrooms overlook the central courtyard or the street – less quiet but more fun; however, windows are double-glazed, and the street is no main thoroughfare. Bedheads are boudoir-biscuit shaped, carpets are modish, colours are moody blue or scarlet and white. Most rooms are small (this is Paris!) so splash out on a suite if you can. And if you fancy a sweet view of the Sacre Coeur, ask for the suite on the sixth floor.