“Our room had an impossible peacefulness – all we could hear was birdsong,” writes a guest. Behind its imposing old doors, the Millésime is welcoming, cosy and friendly. The hotel is undergoing a bit of a transformation and you’ll now find a Scandinavian, chic feel with blond wood, clean lines and calm colours. Smart, comfortable bedrooms vary in size but are never too tiny (a rarity in Paris): charcoal curtains and throws, sleek white linen, modern lighting; three rooms open onto the charming flower-filled, leafy patio. Splurge on the spacious top-floor suite, with its high-peaked ceilings and tall windows overlooking historic towers and domes; reach it via the cute lift or the 17th-century wooden staircase – a genuine piece of French heritage. Breakfast is served in the 16th-century vaulted breakfast room. In the heart of the Left Bank quarter with literary cafés, bookstores and art galleries a few minutes’ walk away. One of our favourite city hotels, and decent value for Saint Germain.